Non Footy Chat Thread II

[Eelementary]

Mate, if her standards were too high she wouldn't even be part of this story.

Lol true.

I mean, she settled for me, after all...

 

[I'm a loser baby...]

How good is this episode of Poirot? I think I've only seen it three times. Max four.

 

[Gary Gutful]

How good is this episode of Poirot? I think I've only seen it three times. Max four.

I've seen better.

 

[Twizzle]

I don’t think the level would be more than 75mm above the outside ground level; maybe 50mm, or so.

This is a non compliance, you must be at least 75mm above external levels to comply with NCC.

Your pits are above ground but I suspect thats because they have allowed for some top soil and turf to be laid. If you are not going to do that and there is pipe between the bottom of the pit and the first bend then you can remove the pit and cut the pipe lower and reinstate the pit. Generally the plumbers dont glue the pit in place so that levels can be adjusted.

If the problem is the side where Hiney drew those drainage lines, if your top soil and turn that you will be worse off as it seems to be above the finished floor level. That much I would report to the authorities as its a code breach.

Back to the problem, what is outside the top of that image ? where does the water go and is it able to get away ? or does it just pond in that area ?

 

[Gronk]

In that case, if the builder is ducking your calls, I'd be going to Fair Trading. Should be covered under the warranty I mentioned yesterday seeing its less than 5 years old. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to building defects etc but if some of the guys here reckon it looks dodgy, I reckon a thorough, independent defect inspection is in order. And he would have to cover the cost of any repairs.

@Eelementary Sorry I am late to the party. @Incorrect is right about warranty.

If you bought your duplex built by a licenced builder, then your insurance should cover you.

https://hbccheck.nsw.gov.au/#/dashboard

Remember always that this this is "last resort" insurance and you must exhaust all avenues to pursue the builder before you can make a claim.

If you bought a property from an owner builder, then that is a different animal. You have recourse against the owner builder, but it's a shit show.

https://feg.com.au/uncategorized/2121/

 

[Eelementary]

This is a non compliance, you must be at least 75mm above external levels to comply with NCC.

Your pits are above ground but I suspect thats because they have allowed for some top soil and turf to be laid. If you are not going to do that and there is pipe between the bottom of the pit and the first bend then you can remove the pit and cut the pipe lower and reinstate the pit. Generally the plumbers dont glue the pit in place so that levels can be adjusted.

If the problem is the side where Hiney drew those drainage lines, if your top soil and turn that you will be worse off as it seems to be above the finished floor level. That much I would report to the authorities as its a code breach.

Back to the problem, what is outside the top of that image ? where does the water go and is it able to get away ? or does it just pond in that area ?

Thanks, mate.

That image is of the side of the house; there is a very mild gradient (roughly 2 degrees), and it trickles to the street.

Right by the garage, the water tends to pool, as there is no more gradient.

That door that can be seen leads to the garage - right outside there, and the next room, the water tends to pool after moderate to heavy rain.

 

[Eelementary]

@Eelementary Sorry I am late to the party. @Incorrect is right about warranty.

If you bought your duplex built by a licenced builder, then your insurance should cover you.

https://hbccheck.nsw.gov.au/#/dashboard

Remember always that this this is "last resort" insurance and you must exhaust all avenues to pursue the builder before you can make a claim.

If you bought a property from an owner builder, then that is a different animal. You have recourse against the owner builder, but it's a shit show.

https://feg.com.au/uncategorized/2121/

Thank you, mate - I've only ever lived in an apartment complex, where it's easy, because strata looks after the issues!

I was at a loss as to where to go with this!

 

[hindy111]

Thank you, mate - I've only ever lived in an apartment complex, where it's easy, because strata looks after the issues!

I was at a loss as to where to go with this!

Just ring up and call them a bunch of motherf**kers and merkins

 

[hindy111]

Question

If I want to paint a step inside can I use same paint I used on skirting or need a harder wearing paint?

 

[Twizzle]

Question

If I want to paint a step inside can I use same paint I used on skirting or need a harder wearing paint?

harder wearing, what is the step constructed from ?

 

[hindy111]

harder wearing, what is the step constructed from ?

Mahogoney wood. Its lacquered so I will sand back.
I was reading enamel paint.

 

[Suitman]

Thank you, mate - I've only ever lived in an apartment complex, where it's easy, because strata looks after the issues!

I was at a loss as to where to go with this!

Pm'd.

 

[Twizzle]

Mahogoney wood. Its lacquered so I will sand back.
I was reading enamel paint.

ask our paint expert @Eelementary

 

[Eelogical]

 

[Eelementary]

Question

If I want to paint a step inside can I use same paint I used on skirting or need a harder wearing paint?

Hi, mate.

Do you you want to paint the substrate (ie: put a coating on it that is opaque), or varnish it (so that you can see the timber underneath it)?

If you want to paint it, you can use the same product you used for your skirting, but just bear these points in mind:

* traditionally, skirtings are painted in enamel paint (acrylic, or oil-based); these are generally harder wearing than regular paints, but they are not graded for foot traffic.

* because they are not graded for foot traffic, you are likely to see two issues: (1) the coating will wear off far quicker than it would on your skirting; and (2) it would probably be quite slippery

My suggestion would be to use a product called Cabot's Timbercolour - it is an acrylic product designed for timber, it is opaque (so it's a paint), and it can be used on decking. I believe it conforms to a P3 slip rating (I'm going off memory here, so it could be P2, but it definitely has some slip resistance to it).

This product can also be tinted to pretty much any paint colour you like.

You can buy it at Bunnings, or some Dulux Trade Centres (I think the only Dulux Trade Centre that stocks this product is Dulux McGrath's Hill).

https://cabots.com.au/product/cabot...a premium,excellent dirt and stain resistance.

 

[Eelementary]

Hi, mate.

Do you you want to paint the substrate (ie: put a coating on it that is opaque), or varnish it (so that you can see the timber underneath it)?

If you want to paint it, you can use the same product you used for your skirting, but just bear these points in mind:

* traditionally, skirtings are painted in enamel paint (acrylic, or oil-based); these are generally harder wearing than regular paints, but they are not graded for foot traffic.

* because they are not graded for foot traffic, you are likely to see two issues: (1) the coating will wear off far quicker than it would on your skirting; and (2) it would probably be quite slippery

My suggestion would be to use a product called Cabot's Timbercolour - it is an acrylic product designed for timber, it is opaque (so it's a paint), and it can be used on decking. I believe it conforms to a P3 slip rating (I'm going off memory here, so it could be P2, but it definitely has some slip resistance to it).

This product can also be tinted to pretty much any paint colour you like.

You can buy it at Bunnings, or some Dulux Trade Centres (I think the only Dulux Trade Centre that stocks this product is Dulux McGrath's Hill).

https://cabots.com.au/product/cabots-timbercolour-deck-exterior-paint#:~:text=Cabot's Timbercolour is a premium,excellent dirt and stain resistance.

Oh - if you do use this product, just also bear in mind that, because it is primarily intended for outdoor use, you can definitely use it inside, but it will take a little longer to dry.

 

[hindy111]

Oh - if you do use this product, just also bear in mind that, because it is primarily intended for outdoor use, you can definitely use it inside, but it will take a little longer to dry.

I love the smell of paint. It gives me a buzz

 

[Eelementary]

I love the smell of paint. It gives me a buzz

Nice!

It's an acrylic product, so the smell shouldn't linger for too long.

 

[Eelementary]

Hi, mate.

Do you you want to paint the substrate (ie: put a coating on it that is opaque), or varnish it (so that you can see the timber underneath it)?

If you want to paint it, you can use the same product you used for your skirting, but just bear these points in mind:

* traditionally, skirtings are painted in enamel paint (acrylic, or oil-based); these are generally harder wearing than regular paints, but they are not graded for foot traffic.

* because they are not graded for foot traffic, you are likely to see two issues: (1) the coating will wear off far quicker than it would on your skirting; and (2) it would probably be quite slippery

My suggestion would be to use a product called Cabot's Timbercolour - it is an acrylic product designed for timber, it is opaque (so it's a paint), and it can be used on decking. I believe it conforms to a P3 slip rating (I'm going off memory here, so it could be P2, but it definitely has some slip resistance to it).

This product can also be tinted to pretty much any paint colour you like.

You can buy it at Bunnings, or some Dulux Trade Centres (I think the only Dulux Trade Centre that stocks this product is Dulux McGrath's Hill).

https://cabots.com.au/product/cabots-timbercolour-deck-exterior-paint#:~:text=Cabot's Timbercolour is a premium,excellent dirt and stain resistance.

And try to avoid visiting Dulux McGrath's Hill - they're the guys who made me lose my job!

But they do know what they're doing.

If your local Dulux Trade Centre, or Inspirations Centre, don't have the product, they can order it in for you.

But being a retail product, you may find it is cheaper at Bunnings.

 

[hindy111]

And try to avoid visiting Dulux McGrath's Hill - they're the guys who made me lose my job!

But they do know what they're doing.

If your local Dulux Trade Centre, or Inspirations Centre, don't have the product, they can order it in for you.

But being a retail product, you may find it is cheaper at Bunnings.

I only have one step about 1500 long to do. It's more a half step.