Actually, it's more a mini-mal I'm thinking of. Only for when it's below 3 foot. Other than that I'm a short board man all the way.
And Jimbo, believe it or not, the one time I actually ventured out into the "surf" at Bournemouth I was surprised at how much water was moving around. It was actually quite dangerous if you didn't know what you were doing.
I was at a party in October 01 and at about 4 am someone comes up with the bright idea to go skinny dipping. So we all bolt down to the ocean, where a howling westerly had whipped up 3-4 foot of absolute mush. We all stripped off and, in the driving rain, ran down and jumped in. I think I just bounced off the top of the water and ran straight back t put some clothes on it was that cold.
Anyway, the beach there has these groynes every 10 metres or so along the beach, which means when water starts running along the shore looking for a way back out, it hits the groyne, has nowhere to go, and so has to head back out along the wall of the groyne. When you have a situation like that night, you quickly get massive gutters and trenches dug along the water line and beside the groyne and next thing LOOK OUT FOR THE RIP!!!! I reckon the currents were about as strong as you get for a 6 foot beach break in Sydney. I ended up fishing a few of my mates out of the water as they were getting quickly pulled out to sea. They had no idea what was going on.
They're weird the poms. There generally isn't even a hint of a wave in Bournemouth but as soon as it gets to 1/2 a foot they're out there in force. Unfortunately they have no idea what they are doing. So you can sit on the beach and watch them just sit in the one spot for half an hour or more and not catch a thing. You just feel like yelling out "Paddle down about 10 metres to your right", where the waves were breaking.
Funny s**t :lol: :lol:
