Buying a used car

[billy2]

I'm actually looking to buy a used car also.

I wanna buy a ute with a canopy as I've moved to a new place where I need to be able to move tools around (e.g. brush cutters, mowers, etc) and I'm planning to get a dog and would like to have a vehicle I can take them out with.

Was thinking of spending $15,000 but after looking on car sales that doesn't get me much.

Looking at either a Hilux, Navarra or Triton, anyone have an opinion on whether there is much difference between the three? Seems the Hiluxes are more expensive.

I just wanna get something not too old and with low kms, most of the stuff I see has massive mileage on it.

Thinking of trying out Pickles

I used to get second hand utes, but they are very expensive when compared to cars of similar condition for some reason, and they have generally been worked to death by a tradie or farmer. I've settled for a car and a $200 trailor - get the same versatility for a lot less money.

 

[abpanther]

Yeah but I can't really put my dog in a trailer

You are spot on though, only stuff I can find for that price range is pre 2002 and with a heap of mileage on it

 

[maccattack]

It's been regularly serviced, and last year it had the timing belt and water pump replaced; this year the crank seal, timing belt idler pulley, fuel hoses and lower control arms were all replaced. I'm about to have the alternator seen to

The above is a message I received from a seller. In yr opinion. Does this indicate a troublesome car?

 

[Parra]

A specialist broker is very useful for either new or used cars. Often your finance provider can provide you with a contact.

A broker will do all the leg work and negotiating and in my experience you will easily save much more than the fees in the price alone, let alone the time saved.

The brokerage fee will be the best couple of hundred bucks spent on the car.

 

[Mr_Raditch]

It's been regularly serviced, and last year it had the timing belt and water pump replaced; this year the crank seal, timing belt idler pulley, fuel hoses and lower control arms were all replaced. I'm about to have the alternator seen to

The above is a message I received from a seller. In yr opinion. Does this indicate a troublesome car?

No. timiing belts are replaced at the 100k mark. You would normally do the water pump at the same time to save on labour costs (I would anyway). It seems like this fella is good with his services &replaces parts when recomended instead of waiting for a problem. Ask him whats wrong with the alternator, if its failing to keep the battery charged etc? Find out if he's going to replace it or not? If its shot it could mean the battery is also on the way out due to the lack of charging, but thats nothing major. Just make sure he's not having major electrical issues.

 

[The Electric Horseman]

I am also about to purchase a car. I have chosen it and its from a private seller. Can someone please advise on the proper steps i should be taking (in NSW) to ensure everything is done corretly...ie. rego, insurance paperwork etc.
Thanks in advance

 

[billy2]

I am also about to purchase a car. I have chosen it and its from a private seller. Can someone please advise on the proper steps i should be taking (in NSW) to ensure everything is done corretly...ie. rego, insurance paperwork etc.
Thanks in advance

Do a REVS check to make sure there is no money owing on the car - if there is the car can be repossed and you lose your money.

http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/

Get an insurance cover note from any insurer before you drive it anywhere. You just phone NRMA or whoever and ask for a cover note - which insures you till you can get in to pay.

Title transfer is on the back of the rego papers and stamp duty is worked out on purchase price. The seller fills out their bit and you take it to an RTA office and pay the stamp duty anf get title transferred - just make sure you have your cover note in place if you are driving the car to the RTA.

 

[Lambretta]

In very simple terms

Japanese = reliable, cheaper to run, better at holding their value, boring to drive

European = less reliable, more expensive to maintain, lose more value, more fun to drive

American = unreliable shite that is dull as all hell to drive

Yes there are exceptions - Mazdas for example are great to drive and they're Japanese. Some American cars are also ok to drive, but they dont generally sell them here.

I, like you, have pondered the PT Cruiser. I like the retro styling and they're actually a practical use of space with a large loading area at the back. They came in two engine sizes, a 2.0ltr that also appeared in the Neon and this was a dog. Under powered, overly thirsty and agricultural. Matched to the hapless auto it was completely defeated by hills and would search up and down the gearbox screaming like a two year old thats lost it's teddy bear.

It also came in a 2.4ltr that was put into the mid sized Sebring. I drove a Sebring in the US and on the open road it was an unruffled performer with a lazy lope that was relaxed at highway speeds up to 70mph. It didnt have any legs above this, but hey, you dont want speed. If you're going to get a Cruiser, then look for one of these.

The rest of the car is a bit plastic and cheaply made and will likely fall apart much quicker than a Japanese car, but on the plus side they are a unique looking vehicle.

Personally, if I was looking for a reliable vehicle, with a large back for carrying stuff, I'd go for a Mazda 6 diesel in manual form. Great to drive, nice to look at and fuel economical and they come in wagon form and have huge amounts of space. But they're going to be more expensive to buy in the first place.

 

[Lambretta]

ps - a simple check to tell if a car has had the odometer wound back and is pretending to be a much less used car is to look at the state of the drivers seat and the surrounding plastics.

Plastics wear with touches and arm rests, seat backs etc fade and wear the more they are touched

If all the plastics look worn and cracked, then you're looking at a car that's done 200,000 and has had people living in the bloody thing.

If the odometer says under 100,000 all these things should be fairly devoid of wear and tear.

If the seat winder is on the INSIDE of the seat and not the outside, then the seats have been swapped and look at the passenger side.

Check the floor mats too. By this I mean the ones UNDER the mats they've put in. If the floor looks worn and cracked and has holes in it, run a mile.

Take a magnet with you and place it on the side of the car round the wheel arches. If the car has had filler used on the metal, the magnet wont stick.