This might not look too bad , but I can assure you it was a pain in the arse.
Fin chop from my own board.
I'd actually already ripped the fins out of another board earlier that morning.
Very next ( after going and getting my spare board ) wave I went over the falls again and came down on the fins.
I cut nerves in my leg and needed surgery. The worst was yet to come.
A week after I left hospital I lay awake at 3am in agony .
The pain killers I was on had given me the worst case of constipation ever.
Hadn't shit for well over a week by this time.
I had to go back to the hospital where a young man gave me a catheter and an enema simultaneously.
If you think your dick shrinks in cold water... wait until another man tries to push a tube down your snake eye.
Then there was the bit where he shoved what I can only describe as squeezy sauce bottle looking thing up your arse to fill you up with poo loosening liquid.
Then they all pretty much ran and said the dunny is in that room ...you are on your own.
Yeah the relief from getting to do the biggest blackest turd in history was almost worth it....but that is one party I don't think I want to go back to.